Plans for Single Axle, Tilt-bed Trailer
SKU #: JCW- 165759 Mfr #: SA 5A-1973On Sale
$14.96
Overall Rating:
3.5
out of
5
Rating breakdown 2 reviews
5 Stars
0
4 Stars
1
3 Stars
1
2 Stars
0
1 Star
0
1 of 2(50%)reviewers would recommend this product to a friend.
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Overall Rating:
3
out of
5
hard to read,
October 13, 2008
kevinsr
Location: illinois
"i had alot of trouble reading this plan
the numbers where printed so poorly many where impossible to figure out
there where also math errors in the plan"
the numbers where printed so poorly many where impossible to figure out
there where also math errors in the plan"
Cons: poor printing
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Overall Rating:
4
out of
5
I built this trailer,
January 9, 2007
DGrason
Location: Kingston Springs, Tn
How often do you shop at JC Whitney.com? Once a Year
"I was wanting a car carrier that would tilt. I didn't want a ramp of any kind because I thought that I might have some interferance problems for lowered vehicles crossing the threshold of the ramp. With this design, that appeared to not be an issue and I was right. I did make the following changes. First, I used axles rated at 6000lbs with 8 lug 16" wheels instead of the lighter axles described in the plans. The reason for this was that I wanted to get away from the use of car tires for trailer use. With the 16" wheels, I could use a tire made specifically for trailer use and have a much larger load bearing capability. I believe in overbuilding rather than taking a "well, that's good enough" mindset. Yes, these axles were more expensive but I wanted to go first class. Also, I chose to have electric brakes on BOTH axles. Many trailer manufacturers build with only one brake and one idler. But this trailer will now carry a back-hoe, bobcat or farm tractor and stop with no nervousness whatsoever. This especially becomes important in the rain. (note-you cannot haul a farm tractor with narrowset front wheels on this trailer)
So far, the biggest vehicle I've carried on this trailer was my F-250 with the supercab. This vehicle's wheelbase was just barely short enough to fit and most of the weight bias was on the rear axle of the trailer. It's a very tight fit and a crew cab truck will definately NOT fit. The plans show how to make the fenders removable and I did not do that. It turns out that this was a mistake on my part and I should have done that. Instead I just welded the fenders on and now I need to go back and redo them. Carrying my long wheelbase F-250 caused the rear tires to rub inside the fender resulting in amazing tire smoke and a burned spot in the paint on the fenders. However, the trailer showed no signs of sway and carried the load perfectly well.
I carried my wife's Nissan Maxima on it and the whole load was totally benign. The trailer is so overbuilt that it might just as well have been running empty. But the permanently mounted fenders bit me again when the Nissan's doors wouldn't open. I had to climb out the window. So I'll redo the fenders to make them removable and that should make a huge difference.
The plans show the use of a bottle jack as the method for tilting the trailer. I have not found a bottle jack that will really do a very good job. I'm going to try and find a hydraulic ram. One problem was when I welded the mounts to the bottle jack. The heat ruined the O rings and I've never been able to get another O ring that will do a good job holding in the oil. It leaks incessantly no matter what I've tried. So this is one area that the plans come up short. Also, the bottle jack does not have enough length to fully tilt the trailer all the way to the ground in back. Everything I've hauled so far has had enough ground clearance to get up on the trailer anyway but if you were to haul a lowered race car, sports car or custom hotrod, you may well have problems. So I encourage the use of a long stroke ram for this. Also, I fabbed a winch plate on top of the jack mounting point so that I could install a winch at a later date.
The tongue jack described in the plans is NOT a good idea. Instead I used a heavier duty drop leg jack that I mounted on my own fabbed cross member farther back on the A frame. If I had gone with the plan's design, I would not be able to hook the trailer to a pick up truck and still be able to open the tailgate.
When I made the decision to use 16" wheels, I didn't think about not being able to mount the spare tire in the position shown in the plans. The plans show mounting the spare tire between the frame rails but that's for a 14" or 15" wheel. So now, I just carry the spare in my truck.
All in all, this is an absolutely superb trailer and I love it!"
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