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Horn Button

 Shop Horn Button

Things nowadays are much easier than they used to be. All it takes is a push of a button and things get started right away. Press the buttons and the power windows will roll up or come down in an need to use your muscles on the crank handle. Even the engine can be cranked up with a push button ignition need to slip in the key and turn it to rev things up with your car. Unfortunately, these buttons can be overused till they get too soft, loose, or disconnected that no matter how hard you push them, they just won't work. If your car's horn button has reached this point, then here are a few things you can do to fix it.

Purchasing a universal horn button

When buying a replacement for the worn-out button, you have the option of using a single wire or a double wire. For the universal single wire type, the hot wire is connected to the fuse or hooked up to the original horn wire found in the wiring loom. The one-wire connection also requires the button to be mounted on the dashboard frame's metal or other metal sources. For the universal double wire type, the extra wire needs to be grounded to the chassis or the metal frame.

Installing a universal horn button

Step 1: Use a socket and wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable. Inside the hood, locate the factory-installed horn. In the horn, you'll find a wire that's connected to a jutted-out tang. This is the hot wire. Trace the length of this wire back to the dashboard. In some cases, the loom needs to be split to find this. The wire should be cut using wire strippers, stripped on both ends. A 1/2-inch bare wire should be left out.

Step 2: Put an in-line fuse in the wire that was split. (Note: The wires should be connected at both ends.) The horn wire's end should be twisted together with the wire of the in-line fuse. After this, you also have to arc the wire nut on the joint. Repeat the steps for the other end of the wire, but this time, the long kit wire must be included in the joint (three wires should be twisted along with the wire nut). In the end, you should have a one-wire connection to two wire nuts. The fuse should be in the middle of this connection, and aenew hot wire should be out. Any excess wire slack should be taped to the main wire loom.

Step 3: Tape the single kit wire to the loom with electrical tape, all the way to the engine's back. The wire should then be pushed through the firewall's grommet. You may have to drill a couple of holes. These holes' sizes should be the same width as the button mounting frame. You'll then have to make a large hole placed between the mount holes.

Step 4: Connect the wire to the horn button wire, with the wire coming through the middle hole towards your direction. Using the hardware in the button kit, splice the two wires. To do this, you have to slit the horn wire's end and use the proper connector for this. You then have to line up the button mount to the holes that you drilled. Seal them into the dashboard with self-tapping screws using a Phillips screwdriver.

Step 5: Attach another wire to the back of the horn button in case this comes with two post connectors. A screw eyelet should be crimped at the wire's end. Under the dash, you have to find a good ground source. This could be a small nut or bolt that's affixed to the frame. The bolt or screw should then be removed. The eyelet should be hooked up to it. After this, put back the screw or bolt.

Step 6: Tape the excess wire, tucked into the dashboard. Put back the negative battery cable connection and then test the horn.

Alternative: The hot wire on the horn button can be connected to the fuse or fuse block's relay. A soldered connection may be needed for this.