British made with Dupont Kevlar® and Carbon Graphite. Suitable for general purpose or utility use.
Unique EBC stainless steel radiator plates to reduce heat transfer to brake system.
These pads are a great replacement for sport and utility use They have the extra mechanical strength of a sintered pad and are good for use in sandy and wet, general purpose conditions of riding.
Unique EBC stainless steel radiator plates to reduce heat transfer to brake system.
An American-made sintered copper alloy finish ensures longer life and zero rotor galling Look for SV symbol on application lines EBC pads for ATVs come in 4 formulations.
Amongst motorcycle and ATV riders, there is one clear brand leader and that is EBC Brakes. With manufacturing in Bristol UK and Ohio USA, EBC Brakes produce the finest brake pads that you can buy. Every product is fully type approved for each motorcycle or ATV and has passed every known test for performance and suitability.
EBC products cost less than original parts yet perform and last equally or better in all cases offering great value for money in a brand name you can trust and has been world market leader for over 30 years. EBC also offer a complete range of brake rotors and clutches for every motorcycle and ATV on the planet.
Research and Development is the driving force of any successful brake manufacturer and EBC Brakes is proud of its extensive R&D facilities located at its Bristol manufacturing plant which include full chemistry, friction development and testing facilities including 5 dynamometers.
Headed up by Eddie Blackburn, a friction materials research engineer of 40 years experience, we are proud to have Steve Payne back to join the team in 2009. Steve has over 15 years experience in brake pad manufacture and has been tasked with numerous special projects to develop the EBC Brakes and EFI products to new levels of performance and market acceptance.Read more »
The cost of Motorcycle Parts has risen steadily over recent years to such an extent that you could build 15 new complete motorycles adding up the price of the Motorcycle parts separately when purchased as spares.
One way to save money on the cost of motorycle parts is to purchase non genuine items from the aftermarket where saving of 30-70% can be made with equivalent quality items in many cases.
Of course there are some Motorcycle parts that you can only buy from the actual bike manufacturers such as fiberglass parts, petrol tanks, many electronics and logos but in general most motorycle parts can be purchased freely on the open market for attractive prices.
There are several aftermarket success stories in motorcycle parts in such areas as chains, sprockets,tyres,brakes and suspension parts and simple motorcycle parts such as light bulbs, oils and spark plugs and these can be purchased online or from most motorcycle dealers. It is always good to know your exact make model and year of manufacture when procuring motorcycle parts and often the bike model series code or chassis code to ensure you get the right parts. This information can be found in your vehicle ownership document.
The Motorcycle Industry has seen a boom time in recent years and the future looks extremely positive due to not only the freedom of individual travel that a motorycle affords riders but also due to the huge cost savings in transportation compared to gas guzzling larger cars and Suvs. The scooter market has seen a boom in many countries where miles per gallon can reach over 100 compared to a motor car rarely exceeding 30 miles per gallon.
As gasoline reserves draw to a close motorcycles and the sales of motorcycle parts for home maintenance will be a booming business. Markets such as China and India have seen a massive surge in the use of smaller capacity motorcycles and scooters and the trend continues.
As The world population of Motorcycles and scooters grows the sales of motorcycle spares has risen dramatically. From early days of this new era of transportation the world market for motorycle spares has grown to be worth over $11 billion in annual sales with $4 billion of those sold in the USA alone each year.
Motorcycle spares also includes items such as helmets and clothing which are a major source of income for motorcycle dealers.
The suppliers of motorcycle spares splits into two main categories, the genuine or original parts and the aftermarket industry. The aftermarket is by no means a small part of this huge worldwide market and amounts for almost 60% of the worldwide demand for motorcycle spares with riders of both motorcycles and scooters shopping for interesting parts and lower prices where they can be found.
In most Western market any town of over 20,000 in population has at least one dealer selling motorcycle spares and making a healthy living from it and for example in the UK there are over 1500 motorcycle spares sellers with over 12,000 of them in the USA.
Genuine Motorcycle spares as they are know are generally the parts that are sold by bike manufacturers such as Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Ducati and BMW who are possibly the largest 6 manufacturers in the world of motorcycles with masterpieces like Harley Davidson next inline.
When buying motorcycle spares the first thing you should look for is price and secondly reputation. Having a strong brand name in the motorcycle spares market is critical, this leads to expenditure of hundreds of millions of dollars in brand name promotion by many suppliers to claim their share of this huge market. There are also several very interesting shows where you can view the latest offerings from suppliers of motorcycle spares, these are in Milan Italy at a show called EICMA, Indianapolis USA at a show called DEALER EXPO (trade only), in the UK at a show called Bikesport at the NEC arena and in Koln Germany at a show called IFMA. Full details can be found by entering these show names into Google and obtaining dates.
Kevlar® is a man made fiber of the Aramid fiber group. It is one of the trademarks owned by the Dupont group. Kevlar fibers are used in the production of space shuttle components, bullet proof vests and even Kevlar® brake pads Wherever super high matrix strength and light weight is the desired combination Kevlar is a good solution. Kevlar brake pads have been around for approximately fifteen years but due to the extremely high costs of the fiber itself, being 64 times the price of the more common steel fiber it is only used in the higher end brake componentry.
One famous UK factory are one of the more famous blenders of the fibers in Kevlar® Brake pads and have sold over 40 million sets of their popular motorcycle brake pads using the Kevlar fiber technology. In tests conducted by the German Motorrad consumer publication in the early 2000 years the Kevlar brake pads were proclaimed as the highest group of organic brakes tested and it was noted by the magazine testers that the Kevlar brake pads could not make up their minds if they were an organic or a sintered special, sitting precisely between the two performance bands. The trick that enables such high performance is the unit strength of Kevlar that allows it to be used in much lower mix percentages, such as 5-6% by weight compared to the need for up to 60% in weights of steel fiber to achieve the same matrix strength. This allows less filler fiber to be used and more of the useful ingredients to be added to Kevlar brake pads to enhance their performance.
Kevlar® brake pads are now also available for automotive applications and fall into the organic family of materials that have recently been embraced by the automotive industry as a new generation pad segment similar to Ceramic products. The Kevlar brake pad produces a softer more resilient product that is said to improve brake feel and greatly reduce brake rotor abrasion . For this reason Kevlar® brake pads are a firm favorite with people requiring less dust on wheels and lower rotor abrasion.
There are many different variations of Kevlar® Brake pads, with varying hardness and wear life and these are now quite readily available from online vendors of enthusiast components.
Pilot jets which are sometimes called slow jets are the fuel metering system in modern carburetors that determine how your engine will run at lower throttle openings.
Basically what we know as a normally aspirated petrol engine uses a carburetor to feed fuel to you engine operating by suction from the engine. The amount of petrol that is mixed with air is important and has to be monitored accurately. There are several elements to any carburetor important in achieving this and these are the throttle slide and its cutaway angle, the throttle needle that is held into the throttle slide by a circlip, the slow or Pilot jets and then the main jet. The mainjet is screwed into a brass component located in the float bowl of the carburetor and is simple to remove by draining the float bowl carefully and using a screwdriver or a hex wrench to remove the old mainjet and exchanging for the new chosen size.
Mainjets control top end or larger throttle opening performance, Pilot jets and needle position control the slow and mid range performance.
The pilot or slow jet is also accessed from inside the float bowl area but is a small diameter brass jet with a screwdriver slot just in front of the larger brass mainjet. Pilot jets can be removed and changed for a chosen size after determining what is wrong with the engines performance beforehand.
Warm the engine, set your engine idle to 1500 rpm.
If there is spitting as you pull away or popping in the exhaust the pilot jet is normally too small and a larger size should be chosen. A similar effect can be obtained by unscrewing the spring loaded screw on the side of your carburetor but if you have wound this out approx three turns and there is no effect the pilot jet size needs increasing. When changing exhausts and filters to a different to stock design or when you ride in a significant temperature change , altitude or humidity difference a pilot jet change may be needed.
If the Pilot jets is too large the engine will run rich, plugs may soot up and excess fuel consumption and dull performance will be experienced. In such cases you need smaller Pilot jets. To test this screw the idle screw right in and undo one quarter turn. If the engine still performs OK it is running too rich, normally an engine should run best at 2-3 turns OUT on the pilot screw.
Is an essential and often overlooked part of your vehicles safety and running system. Often overlooked as most components are unseen there are several levels of brake maintenance that any home mechanic should be able to do.
First you need to have the right tools and these should include a proper jack for your vehicle if a car or truck and most certainly vehicle stands that will take the tons of weight of your vehicle if the jack collapses or the car moves and comes off the jacks.. Never go beneath a vehicle without these and the vehicle safely locked from rolling. Always perform work on a flat dry surface away from other cars and certainly not on the roadside.
If working on a car or light truck ,remove one wheel at a time to expose the brake rotors and caliper. Check the brake rotor for wear limits and severe scoring. As a general guide if there is a lip that appears to be more than one mm on the outer edge of your discs it could be near its wear limits and the remaining thickness should be measured with a vernier gauge and checked with vehicle rotor minimum thickness specs. You can obtain these for most vehicle rotors from this link looking in the catalog data provided on this link using the pdf versions that show part shapes and rotor minimum thicknesses. Motorcycle discs have much lower wear tolerances, generally half of one mm each side means the rotor is worn out and should be replaced.
To remove the disc pads from the caliper you will need to first remove any hardware that secures the pads in the caliper such as slider pins or pressure clips and then loosen the caliper retainer bolts taking care not to twist or damage the hydraulic hose that feeds the caliper and cause leaks or damage. Support the caliper with a hook made from an old coat hanger if need be but do not hang it on the hydraulic hose. The pads should be easily removed them from the caliper. Often not thought to be an essential part of brake maintenance is inspection of the pads which are without doubt the most important safety item on your vehicle.
Motorcycles suffer constantly from corrosion of moving brake parts as they spend so much of their life outside and unprotected in the rain.
Remove the pads marking inside or outside carefully so to be able to re install in the same locations and brush the pads clean with clear water or brake cleaner. Do not use soaps. Inspect the pads carefully around the edges to check for cracks between the pad material and the steel support plates and if any noticed the pads must be discarded., In salt and wet driving conditions and years of use it is common for pads to corrode and to run pads after they start to develop cracks around the bonding edges can cause loss of brake pads and loss of brakes. All pads have a finite wear life and brake maintenance should also include measuring the pad thickness and checking for sufficient wear material. Discard the pads when 4 mm of one eighth of an inch of material is left to avoid brake fade. If one brake pad needs replacing you will need to replace the whole set.
Check then that the caliper pistons and any slider pins or slideways in the caliper are free to move in and out of the calipers watching carefully brake fluid levels in your master cylinder which should be open and wrapped with a rag to catch spillage. Remember not to get brake fluid on paintwork as it is corrosive. On a sliding caliper where slider pins run within a rubber sleeve, clean the slider pins and grease before re fitting into the rubber protectors.
Final part of your brake maintenance after checking and cleaning all parts is to carefully reassemble making sure not to get greases or brake fluids on to the brake pad or rotor surfaces which can cause loss of brake. A Light film of high temp grease on the brake sliders is acceptable.
Pump up the brake pedal and monitor brake reservoir fluid and top up as necessary.
If any fluid leaks are observed during brake maintenance these must be address professionally by a competent mechanic.
Here is a write up and results of a recent magazine test - Click on the thumbnails to see the graphs in full size with the test results of the best motorcycle brakes at the EBC Brakes Blog.
Replacing one's brake pads frequently means opting for expensive adaptable options. Three types are available of the best motorcycle brakes, (Sinter, organic and sport), offering variable performance levels, pleasantness and durability.
Brake pads are "consumables" that should be replaced periodically. The choice of adaptable over original brand models is frequently driven by cost considerations. The criteria are not, however, limited to this simple duality. Braking distances, pedal sensations and wear speed must also be taken into account. Thus, technologically similar to the original items, Sinter pads are compared here to organic and sport models. In all, we tested 12 models specific for Kawasaki Z 750, ER-6, Suzuki SV 650 and Bandit motorcycles, whose prices range from 23? to 42? (compared to 58? for the original pads). To distinguish the best motorcycle brakes in an objective manner, bench testing was used to determine their ability to brake disc rotation (friction coefficient), along with wear speed. Stopping distances were measured using a braking performance tester and finally, pleasantness was determined by road tests. On completion of this report, it should be noted that, from a safety standpoint, there are no dangerous brake pads. On the contrary, the most efficient models do not allow motorcyclists to reduce braking distances! Organic pads (entry level) are ill-suited to the high temperatures of racing use. Sport pads (the most expensive) do not offer any genuinely higher efficiency on track, but wear faster than Sinter pads, which represent the best value for money option.Method
To assess braking performance of the best motorcycle brakes in efficiency and pleasantness, we subjected all compared pads to the same tests. Behavior: the same testers assessed the bite, power and progressiveness of each set of brake pads before filling in an identity sheet. Hard braking: on a track, the same motorcycle (Kawasaki ER-6f with ABS), fitted with a braking tester that measures braking distance and progressiveness, was used to perform a series of emergency stops at 60 kph (using the front brake only). Measurement bench: provided by CL Brakes, this bench records (after identical run-in times), a brake pad's ability to adhere to a disc. Wear: finally, the thickness of the friction lining was measured both before and after the tests.Definitions
Sinter: this "sintered metal" technology is the most widely used for OEM pads. Multipurpose, it is relatively insensitive to temperature variations and rain. Comprised of a mixture of powders (copper, bronze, ceramic, nickel), the material is compressed then heated to a high temperature (900°C) to adhere to its substrate. Sport: a softer type of Sinter, that tends to wear much more rapidly. Organic: Kevlar, carbon and ceramic fibers are bound by resins. This technique is older and cheaper to implement, but less efficient at high speeds. These pads are mainly used on scooters.Technology
Grooves: present on the pad's friction lining, they dissipate heat, evacuate wear dust and provide a good indication of pad wear. Run-in: essential for optimum operation, this process differs according to the pads. Sinter pads adapt rapidly to the disc after braking a few times at moderate speed. For organic pads, however, the process is longer and requires greater care, as the initial surface is rougher. Wear: on each braking operation, the friction and heat released by the friction between lining and disc causes the pad material to wear. This wear is non-linear and increases with the distance covered. It is therefore preferable to anticipate brake pad replacement.
Article Courtesy of Moto Magazine
Here are the results of the magazine test - Click on the thumbnails to see the graphs in full size with the test results at the EBC Brakes Blog here.